As the evening drew in yesterday, so did the damp and cold. So nothing was more welcome than the warm fire in the bar of the hotel we stayed in last night, and the hot bowl of Galician soup, caldo gallego, that followed.
We sat around the fire, glasses of wine in hand, and discussed the events of the day just gone. Drinking wine and breaking bread together is at the heart of so many good Camino friendships. After dinner, I went to bed a little earlier than the rest of my Camino crew, and was woken by some very cheerful (drunk) Germans at around midnight, insisting that I set the alarm for the morning a little later.
I obliged, and we had another fairly relaxed morning, with a couple of coffees (essential Camino fuel) and croissants all round.
We needed to take a taxi back to the point where we left the Camino yesterday, a somewhat disheartening start to the day seeing the route you have yet to walk ahead of you, but the views were spectacular!
The day was cold, and the walk was hilly, but it was dry, and we made steady progress along what is billed as one of the most difficult stretches of the Camino Inglés. People stopped to say Buen Camino to us, and made sure that we took the right turns on the path.
A cold start to the day meant that we were ready to share more soup at lunch and we were pleased when the bar in Bruma served up a huge bowl of caldo gallego for us! It was delicious with piles of freshly made bread.
After Bruma, we set out once again, and the day began to brighten. Suddenly Galicia was alive with emerald green grass and bright yellow flowers.
Best of all, today was slightly shorter than some of the other stages we’ve walked, so we have had some time to sit in the sunshine, and enjoy a few claras.
Now we’re only 30km from Santiago, and I’m hoping to arrive tomorrow. It’s strange after the long haul that is the Camino Frances that this Camino feels so short, but it manages to pack in some seriously challenging walking into its diminutive distance.